Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Intro to Design Home Page   ►  Week One

Creating a Sloper and
Changing Dart and Seam Locations

  1. Prepare a Bottle
  2. Create a Sloper
  3. Design Variations

For this class we will be using the simple shape of a bottle to explore pattern design techniques. While the shape of a bottle is different from that of a human body, there are similarities between the waist-to-hip region of a woman and the contours of a bottle.

Comparison of a Woman to a Bottle

Prepare a Bottle

For the purposes of discussion I will refer to the bottle as having waist, hip, knee (or hem), center front, and side seam lines. So the first thing you should do is to tape a bottle and draw these lines for reference, see page 3 and/or the video below. (If time is a problem, I have included an Apron Sloper you can use instead of preparing a bottle and creating a sloper as described below, see page 22. Instructions for making a bottle out of cardboard are included on page 24.)

Prepare a Bottle

Create a Sloper

The next step is to create an Apron Sloper you can use for design variations. I have included instructions for both drafting an Apron Sloper, page 4, and draping an Apron Sloper, page 5. You can use either one of these techniques, or try both if you'd like to.

If you have yet to create a fitted sloper, I suggest you try both these techniques to become acclimatized to the feel of the process. You can also use the draping video to train someone who is not a sewer when you need an extra pair of hands for fitting yourself.

Draft a Sloper

Drape a Sloper

Design Variations

Once you have an Apron Sloper, you are ready to try the pattern design techniques. For this first week we will focus on changing dart locations, darts to seams, and seam locations. Next week will focus on adding fullness.

Change Dart Locations

Changing Dart and Seam Locations

Intro to Design Home Page   ►  Week One   ►   Go To Week Two

Copyright © 2007, & 2020 by Donald H. McCunn