Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Upper Torso Sloper Home Page   ►  Week Four

Finalizing the Patterns and Verifying the Fit


During this week you will finalize the patterns. The first step is to transfer all the marks from the fitting shell to the paper pattern. If you are fitting yourself, you will first need to perform the second stage of the fitting.

DIY - The Second Fitting

This stage of the DIY fitting process first establishes the side seam then you can record the neck, armscye, and waist line locations.

DIY - Second Fit

DIY - Adjust Fitting Shell

DIY - Recording the Fit

Two Person - Transferring the Fitting to the Pattern

The marks for the side seam, neck, armscye, and waist need to be transfered back to the paper pattern.

Record the Seams

The Side, Neck, and Armscye Seams

The side neck, and armscye seams are the last thing to check on the pattern. During the fitting process it is easy to remove the initial ease added to the pattern. It is very important to make sure that you adjust the pattern based on the measurements for your waist (#9) and Bust for women (#6) or Chest for men (#5). For a set of the instructions shown in the videos you can print, use the Adjust for Ease pdf file.

After you have corrected the pattern, do another fitting to verify that the grain of the fitting shell is correct around the entire circumference of your body.

Adjusting the Curved Seams

Adjusting for Ease

The Final Verification

It is a good idea to do one final fitting check. During this stage I like to stay stitch around the neck and armscye seams, then turn and top stitch the seam allowances. This gives you the best way of verifying that all the seam lines are in the best possible location.

Sewing to Verify

Verify the Fit

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