Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Bust Sling Home Page ► Week Two
The Pattern, Sewing, & Fitting
I am including two versions for the Bust Sling Bra, the single band and the double band. The single band is designed for ease of fitting. The double band is designed to minimize projection. If it is necessary to optimize the fit of the double band Bust Sling, follow the suggestions for fitting the single band.
A Note About Fitting
I mention this because in one of my early attempts I was having my first model try on a Bust Sling muslin I had made and it was a complete disaster. It did not fit her at all. I was in despair. But then the image of my other model adjusting herself came to mind. The next time my first model tried on the same Bust Sling, she adjusted her breasts and it was just fine.
The Bust Sling Mold created in Week One captures the shape of the body. This needs to be converted into a paper pattern. For step-by-step written instructions, see pages 67 and 68 in the book. There are three basic steps.
For the initial fitting I recommend doing an open cup bra so that you are only fitting the Bust Sling Band. Once this shape is correct, you can add the Styling Cup. The other approach is to create the Styling Cup as you are creating the initial mold.
Preparing the Mold
Copy the Mold to Poster Board
The Styling Cup Mold
The Styling Cup in Poster Board
The Minimizer Cup
The Front Pattern
The Back Pattern
To create an open cup fitting muslin follow the steps indicated below and as shown in the videos. For step-by-step written instructions, see pages 69 to 72 in the book.
Sewing the Muslin, Part 1
Sewing the Muslin, Part 2
The First Fitting
Fit the open cup muslin Bust Sling so that the Bust Sling Bands are snug against the body. If necessary pin any fittings so they cross from the outside edge of the Bust Sling Band to the inside edge. These adjustments can then be transfered to the paper pattern, see page 70 of the book.
Adjusting the Pattern
Sewing the Muslin, Part One
Sewing the Muslin, Part Two
The Second Fitting
There are two descriptions of the double band Bust Sling. The first one works from a mold where the lines for the Bust Sling are drawn on the body. The second description shows how to create the design lines for the mold while it is off the body. For step-by-step written instructions, see page 74 in the book.
The Double Band Pattern
Sewing the Double Band, Part One
Sewing the Double Band, Part Two
Shaping the Mold, Part One
Shaping the Mold, Part Two
Copyright © 2007, & 2020 by Donald H. McCunn