Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Body Double Home Page   ►  Week Three

Full Body Double

For a Full Body Double legs, arms, and a head can be added. The instructions in these videos can also be found in the Full Body Double pdf file.

Contents


The Leg Form

The Leg Form combines the Lower Torso to the shape of the leg. To create this form, you first need to create leg patterns that show the shape of the leg. A copy of the Lower Torso pattern is then used to determine where the leg shape coincides with the Lower Torso. To merge the shape of the Lower Torso with the leg pattern, use gingham to fit the body. To support the Leg Form an iron pipe stand is shown.

The Leg Shape

The patterns for the leg shape are separated into three parts: an upper leg, lower leg, and a cuff. The separation between the upper and lower leg will be at the knee. When you look at a leg, you will see that the front and sides are pretty straight up and down. It is the back of the leg, as seen from the side, where most of the contour occurs. So unlike a pants pattern which has an inseam and side seam, the leg pattern has a single seam down the back of the leg. If you have a Pants Sloper, the front pattern can be used as a starting point for this pattern. Some additional measurements are required.

To take the measurements for the leg shape, secure a ribbon to the end of the tape measure and secure this ribbon around the natural waist. Then with a second tape, measure the distance around the leg and record both the girth and length in the "Full Body Double" PDF File.

Measure the Leg

Once you have taken the measurements, the pattern can be created then cut out of mat board and assembled. The bottom of the leg at the ankle will need a support structure so the legs can be placed on a stand.

Draft the Leg Pattern

Cut the Leg

Tape the Leg

The Bottom Core Support

Finish the Leg


Merging the Leg Shape with the Lower Torso

Fit the Leg to the Torso

The Lower Torso Pattern

Cut the Lower Torso

Add the Lower Torso

The Leg Stand


Adding a Head

For some garments it can be useful to have a head on the Body Double such as making a garment that includes a hoo. The video here shows how to use a syrofoam wig block to add the head.

Add the Head


Adding Removable Arms

The arm can be made by adapting the Sleeve Sloper. The Sleeve Sloper is made large enough at the cuff to allow it to be pulled on over the hand. So in addition to reshaping the sleeve cap to remove the ease, you need to shrink the cuff to the wrist measurement. I also show how to adapt the pattern for the normal bend of the arm at the elbow.

The Arm Pattern

The Shoulder Cross Section

Create the Shoulder Core

Trace the Arm

Tape the Arm

Finish the Arm

Complete the Body Double


Body Double Home Page   ►  Week Three

Copyright © 2007, & 2020 by Donald H. McCunn