Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn

Pants Sloper Home Page   ►  Week Three

Creating Variations from the Pants Sloper


The Pants Sloper can be used to create a wide variety of different styles. Some examples of variations are included in my book How to Make Sewing Patterns on pages 135 to 140, 2nd ed. (pages 43 and 44, 1st ed.) I have added some material here that is not in the first edition of my book which shows how to determine the location of the leg in the sloper so you can create close fitting pants and leggings. These leggings may either be used for outer garments or as undergarments. They also make nice Pajama bottoms for cold weather.

Boot-Leg Pants

Boot Leg Pants

Boot-Leg Pants are an easy style to create from the sloper. There are just a few minor changes to the patterns that are described in the instructions in the PDF file below.

To keep these pants as simple as possible, the instructions do not include pockets. But adding pockets to the side seam might be a nice addition.

Instructions for Boot Leg Pants

Creating Close Fit Patterns

To create close fit pants and leggings, indicate the position of the body within the sloper at the Waist, Hip, Thigh, Knee, Calf, Ankle, and Heel. You can then draw lines where the body occurs. This approach allows you to achieve a close fit without making the garment too small.

The videos below indicate this procedure. The charts for making this adjustment are on page 55 of my How to Make Sewing Patterns, (2016 ed.). They are also available on the chart for Close Fit Pants pdf file.

Changing the Crotch Curve

Measuring for a Close Fit

Adding Close Fit Marks

Drawing the Lines of the Body

Jeans Patterns


There are many different ways of styling jeans. They can be close fit or loose. The main distinctions of jeans are the shape of the pockets, the back yoke, and the waist band.

Instructions for Jeans



The Legging pattern can be used either as an outer garment or an undergarment. The pattern is intended to be used with stretch fabric whether it be Lycra or Spandex for active wear or Polar Fleece for warmth.

The patterns are derived from a pants sloper that has been marked to show where the body is located for a close fit.

Instructions for Leggings

Palazzo Pants

Palazzo Pants

Palazzo pants are kind of fun, a cross between a skirt and pants. The pants shown to the left are made from a net fabric worn over Lycra leggings. The fabric draped so beautiful I made it very full. The hem is 120" in circumference for each leg. The fabric stretches so I used a elastic casing waistband.

Instructions for Palazzo Pants

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