Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Bust Sling Home Page   ►  Week One

Creating the Bust Sling Mold


The process of creating the Bust Sling Bra pattern requires no measurements. You create the pattern by creating a mold directly on the body. The videos below show how to create this mold using Glad's Press'n Seal or strips of muslin. Of the two techniques I find the Press'n Seal produces the best results.

The idea for using the muslin came to me when I was working with my neighbor for a nursing bra. Her modesty factor was such that I quickly realized the Press'n Seal technique would be inappropriate. To demonstrate the muslin technique I have my model Alex doing it completely as a do-it-yourself (DIY) project even though she is not a sewer or a crafts person.

Both the Press'n Seal and muslin molds are stabilized by covering them with masking tape then drawing the lines for the Bust Sling on the masking tape.

Trusting that the Bust Sling Bra provides optimum support for large breasts I realize that some of you may wish to minimize the projection of the breast. To achieve this I came up with an additional way to create the Bust Sling Bra that divides the Bust Sling Band into two separate bands.

Parts to the Bust Sling Bra

  • The Bust Sling Band is shaped around the breast from the inside to the underside, to the outside, then up and over the back. This band has only one seam that affects the shaping. This is the seam that joins the inside of the band to the outside. By creating this band so it remains two dimensionally flat against the body it can be cut from a single piece of woven material. This single band provides an optimum means of fit the shape. It is the weight bearing structure of the bra.
  • The Styling Cup is shaped like a drop of water. It is added last to the pattern and controls the projection of the breast. It will most likely come off the initial Bust Sling sloper as a three-dimensional shape. It will need to have a dart or seam added so it can be converted to a flat pattern. It should not be weight bearing.
  • The Rib Cage Elastic is the elastic that holds the Bust Slings in place. It should fit snugly around the rib cage. But it does not need to be tight because it is not weight bearing. The elastic is attached to the Bust Sling Band using an elastic casing. The elastic casing can be optionally combined with Bra Strap Sliders to control the position of the Bust Sling Bands. The Rib Cage Elastic can either be a pull over or have a closing device.

Creating the Bust Sling Mold

The five videos below show the process of creating a Bust Sling Mold using Press'n Seal. They are summarized in the PDF file Creating a Bust Sling Mold.

Back Band Pattern for a Hybrid Bra:
The Hybrid Bra combines the Bust Sling for the bra cup & shoulder strap with the back band & bridge of a conventional bra. While you are making the initial Bust Sling pattern, you can add the shaping for the back band using the steps below.

  1. Apply Press'n Seal around the back in the area indicated in the first video below.
  2. Cover the Press'n Seal with masking tape from as high as you can get under the arms to the rib cage level. Do this after you have created the Bust Sling shape in front so you can use the marking for the side of the Bust Sling for the edge of the back band.
  3. Mark the masking tape for the circumference above the bust and the circumference around the rib cage.

DIY Applying Press'n Seal on the Back

Applying the Press'n Seal

Applying the Masking Tape

Drawing the Lines

Creating the Styling Panel

The DIY Mold

The videos below show two different ways to create a Bust Sling Mold on your own (DIY). The first one shows how to create the Bust Sling Mold draping muslin over a bra.

The second video shows how to create a Bust Sling Mold using Press'n Seal. This video introduces the concept of using masking tape to stabilize the Press'n Seal before it is applied to the body. It also shows how to remove the mold after it is completed. This video also shows the simplest way to create the mold with the fewest possible steps. This leaves the completion of the pattern to the fitting process described in Week Two.

DIY Muslin Mold

DIY Press'n Seal Mold

DIY Halter with Press'n Seal
Use the steps below to create a Bust Sling mold with Press'n Seal for the halter style. If at any point the Press'n Seal does not stay adequately adhered, use masking tape to secure the individual strips of Press'n Seal.

  1. Wrap one long strip of Press'n Seal around the rib cage.
  2. Wrap a second strip of Press'n Seal from the rib cage at the outside of one breast, over the neck, halter style, down to the rib cage at the outside of the other breast. secure this strip to the rib cage strip with Press'n Seal.
  3. Wrap a third strip of Press'n Seal from the rib cage at the inside of one breast, over the neck, down to the rib cage at the inside of the other breast. These three strips of Press'n Seal provide the anchor strips for developing the actual shape of the Bust Sling mold.
  4. Use a strip of Press'n Seal from one shoulder, down the outside of the breast to under the breast, then up the inside of the breast to the shoulder to form a "U" shape sling. Secure this strip to the anchor strips using masking tape as necessary. This strip establishes the initial shape and support of the breast for the Bust Sling.
  5. Add additional strips of Press'n Seal to shape the Bust Sling as needed.
  6. Apply masking tape to reinforce the shape created by the Press'n Seal. When you do this you will find that you can refine the shape of the Bust Sling even further.
  7. Add the design lines to the masking tape.

The Double Band Mold

The concept of the double band Bust Sling Bra mold is to minimize the projection by giving more shape to the Bust Sling Band. This process is demonstrated in the video below. It does necessitate converting the band into two bands which will be demonstrated in Week Two.

Creating a Double Band Mold

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